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Updated: 56 min 34 sec ago

Coleslaw and Chemicals**

Sat, 09/23/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 2 - weird route, had only ever been on it in the rain. Came back this time and sent 5th try over 2 days. Such a baffling crux at first, but finally figured good beta. the climbing down low is good, but the crux is just so heinous that I can't love the route.
split my tip on my send go. Definitely the least enjoyable 13 i've done at smith (or anywhere...)

The Soft Parade

Sat, 09/23/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 3 - I eyeballed it without looking at the guide -- i.e. without knowing the rating -- and laced up my shoes. My wife looked at the guide and in so many words said, "You're probably not going to be able to do this onsite. Do you want to know the rating?" I said 'no', and that I felt pretty confident from how it looked. I was right. It was challenging, but not desperate. I therefore believe it to be more like 10+, not 11b. Especially with the no-hands rests, as others have mentioned.

Pop Art

Thu, 09/21/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 2 - not super fun. all the holds seemed sharp and not very good. not hard, but just not enjoyable

Mama Docus

Tue, 09/19/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 4 - This thing seemed like it took forever. Although most time I wasn't working on it, either injured or seasons were out. basically half of my tries were one-hangs. Still had to give it some grrr on the send but so stoked to finally finish this one!

Appalachian Spring

Sun, 09/17/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 5 - .

Rising Tides

Thu, 09/14/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 4 - Really good and overlooked. An underrated route for sure. Felt like an onsight cause I remembered very little from the one time I was on it probably 5 years ago. I guess I have gotten better cause last time I couldn't even get to the chains!

Purple Aces **

Thu, 09/14/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 3 - didn't remember it so it felt like an onsight. fun steep section then it really stays on you till the very end. Makes sense why it felt hard years ago.

Walinkg the Plank

Tue, 09/05/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 3 - nice adventury warmup. had no idea what to expect and it was pretty good. it is 11b though

East Ridge

Wed, 08/30/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 3 - We had ideal weather, 25 degrees and sunny, and it was a good thing because we went off route, climbed unneccesary stuff, and had to spend the night atop the Big Step!

The sheer scale of this climb threw us off. We started at 4:30 a.m. and were a little sleep deprived, which maybe explains how we thought we had made it to the Big Step already at 7:00 a.m. We climbed a buttress (we later named it the "Fake Step") which loosely corresponded to Dow Williams' pitch descriptions in the Big Step.. we just assumed we were a little off route. It felt like about 5.9, with a few danger loose holds. We also saw the headlamps of a party in front of us apparently at the top of this step. (They probably took the gully right, scrambled up, then traversed left).

Near the top of the Fake Step, a couple climbers from New Hampshire caught up to us.. they were also confused. We scrambled, short-roped and traversed up the ridge, scanning left and right to figure out where the route was. It finally dawned on us that the Big Step was yet to come, and when we finally reached it, it was obvious and prominent. It offers great climbing at old school 5.7 in Pitch 1 - 3, then about 100m of scrambling up a gully to reach the chimney (pitch 4). It's also a great 5.7 pitch, but deteriorates into bad choss at the top. It's possible to climb out, find a block to the right that takes some pro and an adjacent slung block and build a good anchor out of all that. We exited the chimney around 7 p.m., found a bivy built by these guys:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwxArDeb7Nk
.. and settled in for the night. It was cold but not brutal.

We awoke and started at sunrise the next morning, continued as high along the ridge as possible, at one point skirting a little right to ascend a shale buttress going back left, gaining some elevation in order to contour around towards the Black Towers. The detached fin that marks the start of the Black Towers low 5th class climbing slope is fairly obvious - there are two shiny bolts there - and we didn't have too much snow to deal with. It wasn't that hard to find; our route finding challenge was all the lower stuff, just so much scrambling to do before hitting the Big Step.

Black Towers is very garbage limestone and quite loose, so you really have to check every hold in places before committing to it. Strong PG13 here. Not much pro in the first half, but keep your eyes open and follows pitons, trend up and left, you will eventually see a few more bolts.

The summit glacier traverse is amazing, such a reward after all the trials below. The snow was firm but not icy, except in a couple spots. My partner did have a crampon pop off right at the steepest, iciest part, and I had to quickly fire in a couple screws for him to anchor to while he re-attached it, or it could've been really bad..

Overall, a solid 3/5 rating. It's not always a blast, but it is really memorable. It’s a huge climb and for us was a battle. The descent down the SW ridge to Moraine Lake sorta sucks though..

Other good topos to check:

http://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge-iv-5-7/319166
http://ross-mcewen.blogspot.ca/2013/07/east-ridge-of-mt-temple-2013.html

sendex 147

Mon, 08/28/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 3 - .

Eager beaver

Mon, 08/28/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 4 - Wolf spiders the size of dogs!

Botanical gardens

Mon, 08/28/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 3 - .

Crimpin ain't easy

Mon, 08/28/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 4 - Aka Finger buckets are easy

Gunner

Mon, 08/28/2017 - 09:00
Rating: 4 - .